Monday, 22 January 2018

Sew Over It bonanza

I've had a quite productive sewing time since Christmas and it starts with a bit of a splurge on Sew Over It patterns.

First, and my favourite,  the Sew Over It Joan dress.  This is a pattern for wovens, but I though it would be more comfortable in knit and this is in some lovely wool jersey from my stash (from Fabrics Galore Nov 2016 - great fabric).

I had to make a lot of changes.  Cutting a size 12 didn't work and I had to make all the side seams and back 7/8" to get the fit.  I also took 1/2" from the shoulder width and moved the darts in by 1" (they also need lowering by 3/8").  I normally need to take the wait up by 1", but didn't for this dress and as you can see it is sitting a bit above my natural waist, so that might be an issue for those with a longer body.

Construction was quite easy.  I didn't need the zip.  The kickpleat wouldn't work as per the pattern as there were too many layers of thick fabric, so I just made a 6" slit and then topstitched.  I accidentally sewed the neck on the wrong side and so had to take 4" of one side, but I think this looks good.  The only problem I have had is that the neckband is slipstiched in place and on a stretch fabric, this does pop.  I love this dress and have already got lots of wear, it is lovely and cosy.  I will definitely make another.

Next the Sew Over It Cowl dress.  This is a pretty easy pattern.  Only 4 pieces and with a belt it is quite stylish.  The cowl is just a wider unfaced bit with a narrow hem that flops, and I'm not sure if it feels finished enough for me.

Nothing much more to say.  I love this fabric which came from Stoff and Still, but was again from my stash.  I would use the fabric again (the colour is a sort of marled dusky rose), but probably won't make the pattern again as I prefer a more significant cowl.

Finally the Vintage shirt dress made from Liberty Cord (bought for £4.50 a metre).  I'm still deciding on this one.  Perfectly wearable, but I think possibly my style has changed and I definitely prefer the Joan dress on me (60s rather than 50s, who would have thought). 

I cut a 12 grading to a 10 at the waist, and even with another 2/5" off at the side seams it is still a bit roomy.  I would cut a 10 grading to 8 another time.  I took 1/2" from the shoulders and because I don't like gathered sleeves I changed the sleeve cap to a smoothly fitted one, and this seemed to work.

It was fairly straight forward to make.  Though as I don't want to fasten right up, you can see the lapels are sticking out a bit, so more pressing needed.  The bodice fits quite well at the bust.  It's quite nice and I know lots love this pattern, I can see why ... and lovely for a swish!

So I've made a good start to 2018.  I don't really make resolutions and don't want to have too many enforced plans, however, I am going to take part in selected Sew My Style challenges.  I also want to try some new techniques;  a Sophie swimsuit, a bra and finally get trousers beaten!  I have been trying to make progress with my too large stash, however, what I have realized is that generally it is full of summer-type fabrics, so that means I don't feel too guilty about buying winter fabrics .... any excuse!