Thursday, 31 May 2018

BurdaStyle Challenge May 18

Just getting in at the last minute to post my challenge for May.  I am loving this challenge set by Saturday Night Stitch, though it definitely hasn't been plain sailing.  First my magazine didn't arrive and I had to pick one on-line and then buy the pdf (still that did mean no tracing!).

I do love this dress, great shape, infact Burda suggested it as an option to copy Amal Clooney's royal wedding dress and she looked fab!  If it meant George might turn up I'd wear it every day.  I think this is the shape that probably suits me best.

Image result for amal clooney royal wedding

The fabric is great; a stretch cotton by John Kaldor, originally I got it from Minerva Crafts but it seems to be sold out.  Still available on ebay though.  If you do work with stretch cotton, one thing I would advice is to do a lot of staystiching (ask me how I know this), or like me you will get a stretched neckline.  The stretch makes it incredibly comfortable.

I love the sweetheart neckline, though I would not make one like this again, you probably can't see but you make a separate shape a bit like an eyemask and then insert it at the neckline.  Easier said than done, as it just want to poke out!

Now if I'm on a journey in my dressmaking with Chanel as my goal, and hoping I might almost have got to Marks and Spencer, this is definitely only Primark.  I really did wing it.  It is supposed to have a lined bodice, but when my stretch lining came I didn't really like it, and I didn't know how to sew it in anyway, so I just started improvising, and it sort of out alright, though I think it won't have much longevity.

I cut a size 40, but had to make lots of adjustments.  Took at least 1" from the waist.  The princess seams meant that were lots of places for tweaking the fit.  I raised the waist by 1/4".  Reduced the sleeve width by at least 1", 1" from the centre back.  It really was a nightmare to fit, but in the end I got there.

It's also the last day of MeMadeMay and here are the final outfits.  It's been pretty easy to wear a different outfit every day, but the obvious gap for me is trousers.  I do need to get trousers cracked.



Monday, 28 May 2018

Deer and Doe Myosotis: Sewmystyle

At first when I saw the pattern for this month's Sew My style I thought  I wouldn't give it a go, but remember I had felt the same about the Kalle and then loved it I gave it a go.  So here it is the Deer and Doe's latest release, the Myosotis. 

I'm still not sure about it.  I keep making dresses with lots of fabric around the waist and I'm not sure I like them, but carry on making them!  I think it's just other styles suit me better.  I ordered the paper pattern from Deer and Doe, and can I really recommend buying straight from them, excellent service no slower than ordering in the UK and very good postage.

I made the size 40 which is a 36" bust, while I have a 37.5" bust.  There is plenty of ease and I think the bodice fits me well and is very comfy.  I reduced the shoulder width 1/2" (my usual adjustment) but made no other adjustments other than shortening the sleeve about an inch as I thought the sleeves were too long and adding a little to the length.

It went together fairly easily, but don't go for this one if you don't like doing gathers!  I didn't like the  away they do the collar, I prefer to hand finish on the inside, and I did make a bit of a mess of this (you can't really see it though).

The fabric is some of my bargain liberty tana lawn (£4.5 a metre) and it is lovely.  I kind of wish  I'd used it in a different pattern.  I have worn it already and it is incredibly comfortable.  Lots of swish, but this also makes it a bit tricky in the wind we have been having .... had the odd Marilyn Monroe moments.   I've seen some lovely versions of this dress, and it really suits some, I won't make it again, but I will get some wear.

Here's my last week MeMadeMay selection, as you can see I do mostly wear dresses 1,2,4,6 to were worn to work.



Tuesday, 15 May 2018

Vogue 9077 ... #alittlelawnparty

I love this pattern.  I know it is not very springlike but I am really attracted to the dark coloured liberty lawns, perfect for a shirtdress and I do love this pattern.

It's Vogue 9077  a lovely shirtdress with lots of details.  I wouldn't say it was easy though as described on the packet.  Strangely the pattern has the darts on the rightside, which I don't like so I made them the traditional way on the inside.  It's a very fabric hungry pattern with a full skirt, great for switching.  In case you think this is extravagant, I got this liberty for £4.90 a metre from the end sale at Standfast and Barrat (they used to print it).  I love it and wish I'd bought some more.

I like the fit.  I cut a size 14 graded to a 12 at the waist, raised the waist by 1" and reduced the shoulder width by 5/8".  The main issue is the sleeves which are too wide (I think  you can see this) and also the cuffs which were way too wide for me.

The collar is unusual, its difficult to see here but  you have  has two pieces at the front.  The flaps are a nice detail, though you need to make sure they lie flat.  The flaps and the pieced collar mean you have multiple layers around here and this could be a problem with a thicker fabric (and they do suggest sateen).

I will make this again, perhaps with the fitted skirt.  It would look great in a plain colour to make the features stand out, and also to colour block.

This weeks Memade outfits ... 8 days

 You can just see Tess wanting to get in on the action .....


Monday, 7 May 2018

Safran jeans and Papercut Kyoto

Well what a weekend.  It's been fabulous in the UK for the May bank holiday, far too warm for jeans!  Even so I love these jeans.  They are the first skinny pair of jeans I've ever had and I love them. 

I thought they might not be comfortable, but they are!  I cut a size 38, though if I wanted a really snug pair I would need to cut a 36.  I had to take the back centre seam in by an extra 3/8" and reduce a the sides by an extra 2/8".  I love the mock welt pockets, though the pocket instructions didn't seem to work, you cant get the welt to work unless you clip the seam allowance at step 1.4.  I added 1" to the crotch length and took 5/8" off the length.

The fly went quite well, you just have be really careful to get the folds in the right place.  One thing which seems odd, the fly fastens the men's way.   I doesn't really bother me.  The waist band is pretty bulky, but my wonderful Pfaff managed to topstitch even with the 5 layers of denim.  The star of the jeans is the fabric.  It is a modal denim from Fabric Godmother, unfortunately now out of stock.  When it came I was a little disappointed as it seemed really stiff, however, it softened in the wash and as you work with it and now it is just fabulous.  Just right for jeans that need a lot of stretch.

This is my second Papercut Kyoto.  I think this is a lovely pattern.  The first one I made as a Small, but with this thinner jersey I made an extra small.  I'm not normally a "cute" fabric person, but I really couldn't resist this bear print from Sewmesunshine (sorry also now sold out).

This is a pretty straightforward pattern and I think the frill and drop shoulder add something special to a plain sweatshirt.

My wardrobe is currently around 98% memade, so #memademay is fairly easy for me, but I thought I would see if I could wear a different memade outfit every day of May.  Here is the first week.