Vogue 9075; gingham fun

I do like to be aware of the trends, and sometimes follow them, but this summer there were two things I said I wouldn't take up; gingham (too like my school uniform) and jumpsuits (memories of a particular appalling incident in my twenties involving my new pink jumpsuit and a public toilet floor!).  So what on earth is going on here ...... well I'm afraid it's out and out copying.  I enjoy watching SewHappy's vlog, and Alex looked fantastic in her version, so I was inspired to make my own.  This is definitely my last warm weather garment, and it is already to cold to wear it in Cumbria.


The pattern is Very Easy Vogue 9075; "Dress or jumpsuit has close-fitting, lined bodice with princess seams, side pockets, stitched hem and back zipper. B: wide-legged, pleated pants."  I lined the bodice with a flesh coloured lining, so there was not shadowing through the fabric. 

 

This is obviously a culotte-style jumpsuit, which I think is much easier to fit, except if you don't get the crotch length right it makes problems when you raise your arms.  I read other people's blogs and they remarked on the crotch length being short and being high-waisted I usually have to add length to the crotch, so I added  1 1/2" and actually another half inch wouldn't go amiss, especially when you wear a belt.

 
I cut a size 14 and there was quite a lot of ease in the pattern (I'm 37.5 C cup, 28" waist, 37" hip).  I actually had to take 1 1/4 from the width of the shoulders, which did distorted the shape a little.  I also thought  I might need a little extra width in the sleeve at the bottom, which I didn't need and which actually has made a bit of gape at the hem.  I followed the petite line which took the waist up by 1".  I really don't like necklines high at my neck, so I dropped the neckline following the one from the Papercut Adrift dress, which is the perfect neckline for me.

I found the pattern very long.  I'm only 5'4" but I ended up taking 5" from the length, and it still isn't short.

I French seamed everywhere I could, and pinked elsewhere.  This will probably shock you, but I also didn't bother with the pockets.  I just felt that there was enough fabric in the skirt without adding any more bulk.

 

So in summary, I like this and enjoyed wearing it.  It was an enjoyable make (with some reasonable pattern matching!).  The fabric is a gorgeous gingham from Croft Mill, which Gary (my sewing buddy) bought when we visited and then I stole if from him!  Thanks Gary.  I can't see it on the website.

Are any of you going to SewBrum (Manju I saw your name on the list so will finally get to meet you). I've booked my ticket and started saving.

Burda 6901, a cashmere jacket

After 3 easy makes last week, this is a rather more complicated one.

This is Burda 6901, " Peplum jackets gently envelope the hips and emphasize the waist".  I loved the version made by Julie Starr.  I made a muslin and only made  minimal changes, reducing the shoulder and adding a sliver to the front side piece and about 1mm to the front edge, which I'm not sure was needed.  The main difference I made was to redraft the neckline, because I didn't want a high neck, I just wanted a simple collarless version.  This was partially successful, but there is a little gape on the left hand side, and I ended up with a bit of a point rather than a gentle curve.  I'm about to make another version and this time I want a shawl collar, so I will be having a go at drafting that.

 
I cut a size 14, and I think the fit is pretty good and it can be worn with different shaped skirts, though I think a pencil skirt would probably be the best shape.

The sleeve is well drafted and despite the fabric being thick the insertion went well.  I also liked that the sleeve is a two piece sleeve, where I think you get a better fit.

It looks OK unbuttoned.  I definitely made life difficult  by picking a fabric which is probably too thick and more suited to a coat.  It is fabulous though; a camel wool coating with 5% cashmere from Croft Mill, not cheap at £26.75 a metre but the quality is gorgeous and 2 metres made a jacket with enough left for a skirt.

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I love the lining, which is a gorgeous paisley also from Croft Mill and great value at £5 a metre (I bought 2 colours).

  
Adding 1 mm to the front edge ended up making a few problems as I didn't add any to the inner edge of the facing and so the lining was too stretched.  I had to put in an extra piece which you can see below.

The photo below shows how crucial the pleat in a lining is as you can see how it has opened up for comfort.

Th

 

To give a better shoulder shape, rather than using a shoulder pad I used a cigarette, with a softer fabric, this fills the shoulder but with a softer line.  I used a piece of fabric 9" x 6", rolled them and stitched closed.

You then fit these to the shoulders, so they slightly hang over.

 

 
The jacket has 2 bound buttonholes (quite difficult because of the thickness).

I've had a bit of an obsession recently with top-stitching and thick fabric definitely needs it.  I top-stitched all the seams except for the sleeves. 



I almost love this jacket, but not quite!  I do love the pattern, Burda patterns have such style.  The instructions weren't too bad, though I still would recommend this for beginners.  This is only the second of my SWAP makes, and it isn't looking likely that I will complete.  I keep picking difficult makes and also getting distracted by other makes which don't fit!  Never mind, it's more important I am enjoying myself.  I have almost finished a dress in two days to wear with this.