McCall's 6696 Shirtwater number 2

This is my second attempt at McCall's 6696 and generally I'm happier still with the result (first one blogged here).  My last version was a bit baggy on the waist and this time I graded from a slightly generous 14 1/2 to a 12 at the waist.  This made it look very angled on the pattern, but it seems to have worked.

I took out my usual 1"from the bodice length as I have a high waist.  What I love about this pattern is that it has a C cup size, without having to do a full-bust adjustment.  It is really fitted, but feels comfortable.  I made the belt loops this time, and I do like it with a belt.

What I forgot to do is to take 2" from the back gathering as I did the first time, so it is a little "puffy" but not too bad.

The fabric is the same as my bruyere shirt, but in the burgundy colourway.   There is an olive colourway too, perhaps I'll get some of that too.  I love this fabric.   Its great to sew, soft but with some structure.

I think the other thing I love about this dress is how neat you can make it inside.

I used French seams throughout, and this was my first time using French seams for the sleeves.   I wasn't sure how this would work, but it went well and wasn't much more difficult. I missed out the pockets, which I don't really use so that the side seams were neat.

I'm pleased with this dress (though a short-sleeved cotton dress isn't that seasonal).  I'll be making at least one more version, this time in liberty carline tana lawn (the purple colourway) which I got for the bargain price of £6 per meter from Standfast and Barracks in Lancaster.  It will be thinner, so one for more spring like weather.

 

I'm enjoying a few days off over half term and taking a pattern cutting class on trousers (more later), so lots of sewing fun and challenge!  Hope you are having some sewing fun!

Sewaholic Robson Coat

My second coat this winter.  This time the Sewholic Robson Coat.  I have to admit that yet again I got sucked in by a sew-along, rather than this being a garment I either love or need, and I have to say that I feel pretty ambivalent about the finished item. 

The sewalong was held by Rhonda, but it turned out to be more a number of tutorials rather than a sewalong which took you logically through all the construction.  This meant there were still bits which puzzled me about the construction.  I think this ended up to be the most challenging garment I've made, and I'm not really sure it was worth it!  The sewalong ended in December.  I spent most of my Christmas 2 week holiday sewing it and the fact that I've only just finished indicates how much work there is in this coat.  I did take a break because I actually got fed-up of it.  This all sounds a bit negative I know.

 
I cut a size 12, grading to a 10 at the waist.  I followed Rhona's suggestion to make the sleeve cap bigger, because my upper arms often need the space, however, I think this was a mistake.  You can see there is too much fabric in the upper arm, and as for the sleeve length ......

 
I reduced the sleeve length by 1.5" and they are still far too long.

 
 I'll have to keep my hands in my pockets.

 
One of the reasons it takes so long is that every seam is bound by bias binding (pretty insides though).  Because the sleeves are wool, I lined them.

 

 

 
This meant there were lots and lots of layers to fit in the bias binding!  You can get the idea below.

 

 
You can probably tell from the photos that the yoke pieces would have been much better if I had interfaced them as they stick out a little floppily.

 
There are bit I am very pleased about.  There was lots of top-stitching and generally I was very pleased with the result.

 
The collar fitted well and the epaulettes are cute.  The wool looks lovely with the gabardine. 

 
The coat was only time rich. it cost very little.  The light sage gabardine was only £5.99 per metre and I used 3 metres.  The wool was cheap from Abakan and was in my stash.  The bias binding was probably the most expensive part, you need 12 metres!  It's wearable, but I'm not excited!

So have I learnt not to get pulled in by the lastest sewalong!  Not at all, I'm afraid I've already bought my fabric for Grainline's Cascade duffle coat.  Yes, another coat, I must be a glutton for punishment, but I've always wanted a duffle coat, and it's a lovely pattern (not that the pattern is available in the UK yet!).    So is it just me or do you get distracted too!!

Lady Skater Seagull dress

This is my second Lady Skater dress from Kitchy Coo.  Its a very straightforward pattern.  I cut a size 4 which is pretty much identical to my measurements, and this is pretty much straight out of the packet.

The fit is pretty good, although it's only when I see the photos that I think the style makes me look pretty busty!

 
I got the fabric from the Village Haberdashery, who have some funky knits (though this one is sold out now).  When I bought it I did think it was more of a duck egg colour, and it isn't a true grey.  What I don't like about it is that when stretched the white backing shows through.  You can probably see this from the neckband in the photo, where it is clearly lighter in colour.  It also isn't as stretchy as the other pontes I have used and the neckband could have done with being a little longer.

I also think I should have been a little more careful about seagull placement!!  I didn't really intend to have a flock placed just on my left-boob!

I made the short sleeve version because I wanted to wear it with a cardie in winter and I thought the short sleeves would be more comfortable, and this is indeed a comfy dress.  I would definitely recommend this as an easy to make, easy to wear pattern.

I've got lots of sewing planned; another tailored Gertie Jacket, another McCall's shirtwaister, a Camas jersey blouse, a crepe colour-blocked dress, a Deer and Doe Sureau dress, Ginger Jeans, to list a few.  I have all this fabric waiting and so I am desperately trying not to buy any more fabric or patterns until I've made at least 12 garments from my fabric/pattern stash!

What I also want to do is to try some new skills in 2015;

a lapped zip

boning

more tailoring including pad stitching and using horsehair

welt pockets

making covered buttons

flat felled seams

attaching belt loops

piping

adding horsehair braid to a hem

inserting a double ended zip

lining a skirt vent

making a waist stay

sewing a bias-cut garment

get more confident sewing with silk

Make a pair of jeans

Make a bra and pants

Make some really well-fitting trousers

I really want to improve the fit of my garments.  There are too many in my wardrobe where the fit isn't great, especially too tight in the bust.  I have got to crack the full-bust adjustment rather than just trying to put a little more fabric in the seam.

So I'm joining in The Little Tailoress' Fun with Fit series.  We are going to make a sloper using Butterick 5627, so I'm hoping I'll learn a lot!     Do you have any crafting plans?