Showing posts with label silk jersey. Show all posts
Showing posts with label silk jersey. Show all posts

Sunday, 15 May 2016

This is my third Colette Wren and probably my favourite.



I have made two versions of the fitted skirt in ponte with long sleeves.  This time I made version 2.


.... and I like it.  The fabric is fabulous.  It is modal and silk jersey from Fabric Godmother, good value at £15 a metre, unfortunately they only have burnt orange left.  It feels gorgeous, though it was not really easy to work with and my overlocker really didn't perform well.  Still it feels so comfortable and lovely to wear and the colour is just lovely.



I cut my usual size Medium, taking 5/8" out of the shoulder width and the fit is pretty good.


For my last two versions I raised the waist by 1" and then decided the waist was a little high, so I returned the waist to its original place (it looks a little low at the back now).  So if you are taller than 5'4" you might find the waist needs lowering.

 
Everything went well except for the waist.  It is another gathered on clear elastic waist (like the Monetta) and I really do struggle with this.  You need at least 3 hands, and as you can see the waist has ended up rather lumpy, fine with a belt though.


I love the gathers at the shoulders and this was easy to do in the light jersey.  They make a nice fit on the bust.



Like my pervious Wrens I made a binding for the neckline rather than the suggested method of just folding the neck edge under.  The binding makes the fit snugger and feels much more robust.  I cut a long piece about 1" wide (as this fabric is really stretchy I didn't bother with this being on the bias but cut it on the grain) and made it about 1" shorter than the neckline length.  I finished it with a twin needle and I think it looks good.


So I'm happy with this one.  A few weeks ago I asked if anyone had any advice on the Inari Tee sleeves.  Well Karen has just blogged the complete answer and in reading this blog and watching the videos I have had a light-bulb moment.  I stupidly thought a lower armscye gave you more room and thus more comfort .... how wrong can you get.  It's well worth reading the post but also all the comments and watching the videos.  I now feel I can have another go at the Inari and sort the sleeve problem.

We've had some lovely days recently and Cumbria looks beautiful.  I had a lovely walk with Dan over the weekend, gorgeous blossom


 ... fat lambs ....


... the smell and the look of wild garlic ...


... and best of all the bluebells ...

 
Hope it is beautiful where you are and that the sewing is going well.  For us Brits the Great British Sewing Bee is back tomorrow night, so no doubt there will be some inspiration to be had.
 
 

Monday, 18 January 2016

Simplicity 1202 and Jalie 2921 Scarf Collar top

An outfit this time; skirt and top.  I need to apologise in advance for the lack of decent photos, these were taken during my cold and it shows!
 
 
 
The skirt pattern was free with Sew Magazine and it is one of those useful capsule patterns.

Misses' and Miss Petite Sportswear

I started with the fabric, some gorgeous Swedish wool, which has a slightly silky sheen and is a little more chartreuse than it looks here.  I thought it would make a cute skirt and overall I'm pretty pleased.  I cut a size 12 wanting it to fit on my natural waist rather than below, and I could still have taken some more out as it is a little loose.


What I have decided is that I just don't like faced waists and much prefer a waistband.  I would make the change, but it would make the skirt shorter and I think this is as short as I feel comfortable (even though the older I get the shorter my skirts seem to be getting!).


The other reason I'm not keen on the facing is you can just see it - it is a deep one.

 
I do like the deep pleats, they start at a flattering depth, giving you a nice flat line but with some interest.  Pattern matching .... not bad and I was pleased with the invisible zip insertion (sorry lack of detailed photos, I will improve .... promise!).


The blouse is the Jalie 2921 Scarf tie top.  This is my third version, number two is here.  I love this pattern, so easy to wear and pretty quick to make.  The tie construction is amazing, you fold the whole blouse into the tie collar to make a really neat join.  I made it the same as my last one, though the end result is definitely looser (even though it's the same fabric), but this time made the tie a few inches longer to make the tie better.  This fabric is silk jersey from Mood fabrics in the USA.  I can't recommend it enough, it's gorgeous and easier to work with than silk and so comfortable.  Just look at the colour selection.  I want more!!!  Unfortunately it is rather expensive here in the UK with the delivery and the customs (another £18) which means I probably can't succumb again.  But if you live in the US, it's a great buy.  I had 2 metres and that was plenty for the blouse with quite a bit left over to make some pants!

 
I am sure I will be making both of these patterns again.  I would like another skirt but with a waistband.  You will also see this fabric again.  I am going to buy some more to make a winter weight Colette Laurel with added welt pockets.
 
 
I've enjoyed another film, this time The Danish Girl
 
Image result for the danish girl
 
Thought provoking and very beautiful and I really coverted this kimono.  Perhaps one for the future ... so much to sew!


Sunday, 28 June 2015

The Five month Dior-style jacket and the 5 hour Jaile scarf-collar top plus giveaway

I started this jacket way back in Feburary and have been plugging away steadily at my sewing class since then, hence why I am posting something which is very unseasonable at the moment.  This is my second version of Gertie's New Look jacket from her Book for Better Sewing. 
 

I love the fit and the shape of this jacket.  It really extenuates the waist.  Here it is worn with a fuller skirt (again from Gertie's book).


I am probably more likely to wear it for work with a slimmer skirt (yes, a very sensible look because I have a rather sensible job!).  Here it is with my adapted Mabel skirt


 
You can probably see the detail better here.  There is a big shawl collar, which is only at the front, there is no collar at the back at all which is rather unusual.  You can see the waist shaping here.  This is achieved by darting and an under-peplum.
 


The fabric is melton wool from the Cloth House.  I wouldn't use it again because it is just too firm and so difficult to work with plus at the moment it feels stiff to wear, on the other hand it has taken the shaping really well. I will definitely make this jacket again (and possibly in black) but perhaps use a good quality wool crepe.


The back view.  You can see there is actually quite a bit of fabric in the back, it isn't a close fit, but this does make it more comfortable to wear.

 
Here is a photo of the guts.  I used fusible heavy interfacing.


 
You can see the inner-peplum here.  Lots of darts to give extra structure.



I made bound button holes, they are rather too thick, so I will work on that in future.


I lined the jacket with satin.


I'm wearing the jacket with my new blouse.  This is Jalie 2921 scarf-collar top.  I love this pattern.  I made it previously in a thicker jersey, but this is gorgeous silk jersey and I absolutely love it.  It feels great to wear and was reasonably easy to cut and sew with care.  Now this is where I am jealous of you guys in the USA.  I couldn't find silk jersey anywhere in the UK under £100, and so I'm afraid I bought it from Mood.  It wasn't cheap but worth the cost and you could probably squeeze this top out of a generous metre.  What was even dearer are the shipping costs and then you have to add the £19 inport duty!  It's a good job I like it.  I also bought 1 1/2 metres of black.  I would love more of the colours but it's just too extravagant to repeat!  So lucky you in the USA.    The fabric has just the right stretch and feels really luxurious.




As I said I love this pattern.  It took me just under 5 hours to make and that included all the seams being French seamed (including the sleeve insertion).  I think the collar is very clever (the first time it took me a while to work out).  You roll up the back and front pieces into the collar.




You then sew the collar together, with the rest of the blouse inside, and pull it all out through a 1" gap!  I know amazing and it gives the inside such a clean look.

 
Inside of collar.
 
 
 
I'm going to make another one from the black silk jersey.  If I want to try an actual bow I will need to make the tie longer as it is a bit bunched at the moment.

On a non-sewing front Dan, Gemma and I went to see Elton John who was appearing in Kendal!  Direct from Las Vegas to Kendal.  It was a great show, though being outside pretty cold.

One of the more unusual opportunities I have at work is to see lots of lovely wild animals and this little family of ducklings won the award for cuteness this week.


Image result for great british sewing bee book 2015Finally, I'm incredibly pleased to have more than 100 followers on Bloglovin, thanks so much and to celebrate I'm having 3 give-aways over the next 3 posts.  The first is a copy of the new Great British Sewing Bee book, because of postage I'm afraid I'm only offering this one to UK followers (but the next 2 pattern packages will be for everyone).  So if you would like to win this just leave a comment below (it's a long story how I ended up with more than one copy myself).  I'll close this draw on Monday 6th July.