McCall's 7818 and the Arielle skirt

 

 

I can't believe it is a month since I last blogged.  I guess I'm still trying to get used to my new routine.  I'm enjoying my new job, challenging and a real opportunity to make a difference.  Some lovely people and I'm glad to be back at work.  It makes the days when you don't work more special.  I guess I'm not ready to retire.

Though I haven't been blogging, I have been sewing.  Mostly slower projects, and, as it seems, a lot of jackets. 

 

This one is  is McCall's 7818, one of their new winter patterns.  It's a Unisex Unlined Jacket with a notched collar and back slits.  An oversized, checked jacket ticks two of the current fashion trends.  It is meant to be oversized and so there isn't a lot of fitting.  It is unisex.  I did a tissue fit and settled on a medium, but made some reductions to make sure it isn't too big.  I took 1 2/8" from the shoulder width, and almost 3" from the length and also removed a little from the seams.  This is a Palmer Pletsch pattern, and for those of you who are wanting patterns to help you improve your fitting, I would really recommend these.  There is a lot of advise about adjustments and also some great tips for improving your sewing.  You can really learn a lot from these.

Having doing a practice, I chickened out on the welt pockets.  In the main this was because of the thickness of the fabrics and it is a double welt, flapped pocket..  As the welt goes across the dart you end up with more than 8 layers of the fabric, all interfaced and I just couldn't see how it would lay well.  So I used some finer plain wool and added two patch pockets.  These look fine, though not as nice as welts would be.  I also didn't add a breast pocket.

The collar went in well, though the instructions were a little vague about where to put the seam fabric.  You have to either hand-stitch or stitch in the ditch at the collar seams to keep the two together.  I used a tiny stab stitch for better control.

The instructions were pretty clear, except for how to mitre the corners on the flaps, but I managed to work something out.  The lining is some proper silk fabric used for the back of waistcoats, which I picked up for £10 for 7 metres!  It's great.

The fabric is a gorgeous, fairly heavy wool from Fabworks.
  They don't seem to have it on-line but they have a fabulous selection of other wools.  I bought 2 metres and had loads left, enough to make …. 
The Ariel skirt from Tilly and the buttons.  This is my first time with this pattern and I really like it.

 
I think it's a pattern which benefits from fairly firm fabric, to keep the waistband high.    I love the shape.  I lined it and I really like the way the lining works with the facing, very neat.  Like all Tilly's patterns the instructions are very clear, and this is a skirt most beginners could manage.  I'm not sure I will wear the skirt and jacket together, but I like both and I am pretty happy with the pattern matching on both.

….

A trio of Cleos

I wasn't sure the Cleo was one for me; as you know I prefer a fitted look (and perhaps thought the style might be a bit young for me), but I did think it would look great on Gemma, so I made two for her birthday, and then decided I would just whip a quick one out for me.  So here we are 3 Cleos in very different fabrics.

First up is mine.  All 3 versions came from stash fabrics.  The cleo can be cut from a metre of fabric so it's a great pattern for using your hoard.  I used a stretch brushed cotton, which looks like velvet.  It is a little lightweight, I think you are better using fabric with some weight (as with the denim below). 

I cut a size 4, about 1.5" shorter than the knee length version. There is plenty of room as you can  see (perhaps not very flattering from the side).  I'm wearing it here with a Tilly and the Buttons Agnes (no I'm not being paid to advertise), I did find this pattern small and wished I had cut the next size.

No back pockets on this one.  I used mustard top-stitching thread, which has given a lot of definition.

No 2 is stretch denim and probably my favourite, and looks great on Gemma.   

You can see the top-stitching here.  The instructions for all Tilly's patterns are really good and this is an excellent make for beginners.  Be careful when you are cutting the front facing out; there has been an error and mine had a sticker on it which wasn't quite lined up correctly.

Back pockets this time.

For no 3 I went a bit crazy with some fabric which may be for furnishings, but it's so cute (again for Gemma not me).  This is a little longer to fit a full dog in on the hem.

 

If I had thought it through I would have cut the front and the back on the fold to avoid having to pattern match.  You can't really see the top stitching, so the seam just isn't necessary.

The hardest part is probably turning the straps.  Make sure that the ends aren't wider (which is easily done) because the will peak through annoyingly.  You may notice a twist below, I did sort that out before I stitched the straps.  I used the dungaree clips and a jeans button.  Just a hint with jeans buttons, don't hammer from the right side, i.e. the top of the button, hammer the underneath, or the button bends!

I had a lovely half term; 3 days off.; fabric shopping (though spent nothing),   LaLa Land, which I really enjoyed.  Love Sewing has an interesting suggestions for inspiration copies from 2 of the dresses, including the sewaholic cambie for the main yellow dress  ... which sounds like a good idea, I might have a go, are any of your thinking of sewing a copy?  I also saw Moonlight, which is a fabulous film and worthy of the best picture and my lovely boy came home for the weekend.  What more could I want?

Tilly and the Buttons Coco

A touch of the Francais .... this is Tilly and the Button's Coco dress with the funnel roll neck.  It's a very simple dress, but I love it.  It is just so comfortable.  The main reason for this is the fantastic ponte fabric which I bought recently from the Fabric Godmother, I loved it so much I tried to buy some more but .... all gone!  I was inspired by Karen's version with her fabric recommendation (thanks Karen).  The nearest they have is in a white colourway which is also a good fabric but not quite as snuggly.

I wasn't sure where the pockets should go, they look great on the pattern, but far too low to put your hands in!

So I put mine much higher .... are they too high do you think!

 

I cut a size 5 in the bust grading down to a 4.  I took 5/8" from the shoulder width, and although I'm only 5'4" I added two inches to the length as befits someone of my age!  I really like the final result for an easy weekend wear, its just so comfy and the shape is really quite flattering.

 

I think this is a good beginners pattern; no fastenings and the funnel neck is pretty easy to fit.  I would definitely recommend it with a stable ponte fabric for a first go and knit fabrics.  If you haven't seen one of Tilly's patterns the instructions are great, you get a little booklet fully illustrating all the steps with photographs.

 

I've just enjoyed three days off during half term, awful weather but lots of sewing; 2 Orlas and GBSB dress, plus lots of gratuitous fabric shopping .... such plans.  I also had a visitor for the week, Monty has been staying.  He's 7 months old now and full of beans.  Such a cutie.