Friday, 23 February 2018

The Rumana Coat; Sew My Style

Well this was an epic effort and not one I really enjoyed.  In the main this was due to the fabric, it is Lux melton from Fabworks and when it arrived I thought it was going to be great, but I just don't think I like melton.  It just has a feel like felted carboard, and I think you can see in the photos that it just has a peculiar look.  Plus I found when I was trying out my fusing that it really easily pilled.  So I felt put off by it, but I had bought 3 metres and I so I carried on.  This is the By Hand Rumana Coat and it was the Sew My Style challenge which I had decided to join in.





Given how much work there was I'm not sure it was worth the effort.   First there was printing and sticking the PDF then I had to make changes, raising the waistline by 1", reducing the shoulder width and taking first 4 3/4" from the length and then later another 2".  Given the number of pieces and that there were no lengthen/shorten lines that took considerable time.





The instructions weren't always clear; the diagram for step 4 is actually incorrect, the collar took a little figuring out and I had a nightmare with the lining.  At certain points there was so much thickness that I thought my machine might struggle, particularly sewing the facing/collar, thank goodness my trusty Pfaff coped.  The sleeves were difficult to ease in and I have seen some others found this.    I bought a gorgeous button from Akahban, but it was 1 1/4" inches wide and my button-hole foot didn't make button holes that big, so I went for a  bound button-hole.  I thought the wool would be too thick for this so made the lips from some silk.  Not sure that has really worked and from the photos it also looks a little high.  I added shoulder pads to fill out my rather narrow shoulders.



Sorry there is a lot of whinging here.  As you can see I didn't really enjoy this make  (and because I was trying to finish it for Sew My Style I did it in a week).  I'm not really pleased with the result, mainly because of the fabric ... but .... I may try it again.  I do think this coat has potential.  I love the shape, love the easy welt pockets, look the topstitching and in the right fabric could be great.   Also there is a sewalong currently happening, which will clarify any difficulties.   There are changes I would make:  the sleeves seem a little big, narrow slightly, lower the button hole, perhaps put an inch back on the length, and length the lining to avoid pulling and the welts would benefit from light interfacing  By the way I love this lining!








6 comments:

  1. Its a lovely make - but I do know that feeling when you are not 100% about a coat. I was going to suggest to make see if it worked a bit shorter so it would wear with jeans, but I can see that it may not work with dresses ..... I think in reality you will wear it with a scarf also and that will also change the look of it. the detailing really gives it a great line

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    1. Thanks Eimear, I think I'll wear it on smarter occasions. But I am treating it as a bit of a trial, so one day .....!

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  2. That is a LOT of tweaking for a coat! Coats are serious work never mind having to do all that fit tweaking besides to a PDF. I love the result too though - it looks very chic :)

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    1. Thanks Kathleen, I'll take chic!

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  3. I have a sewing friend who has exactly the same complaints as you Mags. She wore hers today and it is a grand coat but not sure if the headaches and heartache was truly worth it. So well done you for sticking it out and finishing. From where I'm standing it looks like a perfectly serviceable coat and just in time for our expected cold spell next week.

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    1. Hi Ruth, in fairness I started sewing on Wednesday and finished on Sunday (it was halfterm), so it wasn't too onerous. I think with a bit more work on fitting and better fabric, it could be a great coat, so I haven't thrown the pattern away yet!

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