Sunday, 1 July 2018

June Burdastyle challenge

I just finished this one on the last day of June.  To be honest I wasn't really excited by the June issue and I was going to choose a pattern from a back-issue, then I was going through my box of off-cuts and saw these bits of leftover silk and thought I would try making 109, even though the photos aren't very clear in the magazine.

This is a fairly straight forward pattern.  I'm not sure that I really like the way the lower front puffs out a bit.  I cut a size 20 but wish I had a little more ease in the arm-holes.

I didn't need any opening as it easily goes on over my head.

I didn't have enough silk in one colour.  I love the blue silk.  The duck egg is Beckford silk and a bit thicker.  I did struggle with the silk.  I made bias binding myself, but it really did challenge me.

You can see how much by this mess I made of the neckline.  I know I should have unpicked, but I thought it might end up being even worse, with needle holes and a stretched neckline.

I won't make this one again, but for a top which cost me nothing, I will be some wear from it.

Thursday, 28 June 2018

Sewmystyle kimono and Carolyn pyjamas

So this month I went from thinking that I wouldn't join in the Sewmystyle challenge to getting completely carried away and making an entire matching set.


(By the way I never thought I'd be appearing in public in my pyjamas!)  It started because I had 5 metres of this lovely Liberty fabric in my stash.  Now before the mathematical among you think that equates to £110 of fabric, this was one of my bargains bought at Standfast and Barrat in Lancaster on their last day of offering Liberty seconds and it cost only £14.98 for the lot!  I know,  I could kick myself for not buying more.

I did cheat a bit this month, because I couldn't justify buying the Suki Kimono pattern, when I already had this one, which is very similar and from the Great British Sewing Bee from Fashion With Fabric.  The pattern is straightforward, though I think I could have gone down a size.  I bought a bit of Tana Lawn for the belt and facing, it was more yellow than I wanted and I had forgotten how see-through Tana Lawn can be.  I French seamed all the seams, but came to a problem at the under arms.  All looked beautiful on the inside, but then when I turned it right-side out at the curved underarm seam it wouldn't lie properly and I have had to cut through at points, which now looks a mess.  I suppose there just isn't any way you can French seam a curve like this, lesson for the future.  Do any of you have any suggestions?

I've had the Carolyn pyjamas in my pattern stash, and as I had enough fabric left I carried on.  I cut a size 10 for the top and an 8 for the bottoms.  The top is a good fit and didn't need any changes.  I put on extra 1" in the rise on the bottoms as I don't like anything on my lower waist.  I do have a small waist and find that any lower waistlines seem to try and move up to the smaller part (that probably sounds nonsense but hopefully you will get the gist.  The front is still too low and I would like another 1" there  I didn't bother with the faux-fly. Also these look the right size, in terms of comfort I wish I'd gone for the next size up.  I have to say this fabric is lovely to wear as pyjamas.

This is a great pattern, though quite a lot of work in it.  What I really like is that you can make the insides so neat.  You won't be surprised I French seamed everything.  I'm getting pretty good at setting in sleeves with French seams.

I has just enough fabric left to make my first  ogden cami.  I had to make the back facing from some different fabric, but that's quite useful for spotting the back.  There has been tons written about the cami.  I'm not sure whether it's really for me.  I'm not keen on showing my brastraps and in the lawn it is a bit baggy.  However, it is lovely for hot nights and I might try one more in a drapey fabric.  The only change I made was to reduce the strap length by around 5/8".

If I had more fabric I would also have made the shorts!

Thursday, 31 May 2018

BurdaStyle Challenge May 18

Just getting in at the last minute to post my challenge for May.  I am loving this challenge set by Saturday Night Stitch, though it definitely hasn't been plain sailing.  First my magazine didn't arrive and I had to pick one on-line and then buy the pdf (still that did mean no tracing!).

I do love this dress, great shape, infact Burda suggested it as an option to copy Amal Clooney's royal wedding dress and she looked fab!  If it meant George might turn up I'd wear it every day.  I think this is the shape that probably suits me best.

Image result for amal clooney royal wedding

The fabric is great; a stretch cotton by John Kaldor, originally I got it from Minerva Crafts but it seems to be sold out.  Still available on ebay though.  If you do work with stretch cotton, one thing I would advice is to do a lot of staystiching (ask me how I know this), or like me you will get a stretched neckline.  The stretch makes it incredibly comfortable.

I love the sweetheart neckline, though I would not make one like this again, you probably can't see but you make a separate shape a bit like an eyemask and then insert it at the neckline.  Easier said than done, as it just want to poke out!

Now if I'm on a journey in my dressmaking with Chanel as my goal, and hoping I might almost have got to Marks and Spencer, this is definitely only Primark.  I really did wing it.  It is supposed to have a lined bodice, but when my stretch lining came I didn't really like it, and I didn't know how to sew it in anyway, so I just started improvising, and it sort of out alright, though I think it won't have much longevity.

I cut a size 40, but had to make lots of adjustments.  Took at least 1" from the waist.  The princess seams meant that were lots of places for tweaking the fit.  I raised the waist by 1/4".  Reduced the sleeve width by at least 1", 1" from the centre back.  It really was a nightmare to fit, but in the end I got there.

It's also the last day of MeMadeMay and here are the final outfits.  It's been pretty easy to wear a different outfit every day, but the obvious gap for me is trousers.  I do need to get trousers cracked.



Monday, 28 May 2018

Deer and Doe Myosotis: Sewmystyle

At first when I saw the pattern for this month's Sew My style I thought  I wouldn't give it a go, but remember I had felt the same about the Kalle and then loved it I gave it a go.  So here it is the Deer and Doe's latest release, the Myosotis. 

I'm still not sure about it.  I keep making dresses with lots of fabric around the waist and I'm not sure I like them, but carry on making them!  I think it's just other styles suit me better.  I ordered the paper pattern from Deer and Doe, and can I really recommend buying straight from them, excellent service no slower than ordering in the UK and very good postage.

I made the size 40 which is a 36" bust, while I have a 37.5" bust.  There is plenty of ease and I think the bodice fits me well and is very comfy.  I reduced the shoulder width 1/2" (my usual adjustment) but made no other adjustments other than shortening the sleeve about an inch as I thought the sleeves were too long and adding a little to the length.

It went together fairly easily, but don't go for this one if you don't like doing gathers!  I didn't like the  away they do the collar, I prefer to hand finish on the inside, and I did make a bit of a mess of this (you can't really see it though).

The fabric is some of my bargain liberty tana lawn (£4.5 a metre) and it is lovely.  I kind of wish  I'd used it in a different pattern.  I have worn it already and it is incredibly comfortable.  Lots of swish, but this also makes it a bit tricky in the wind we have been having .... had the odd Marilyn Monroe moments.   I've seen some lovely versions of this dress, and it really suits some, I won't make it again, but I will get some wear.

Here's my last week MeMadeMay selection, as you can see I do mostly wear dresses 1,2,4,6 to were worn to work.



Tuesday, 15 May 2018

Vogue 9077 ... #alittlelawnparty

I love this pattern.  I know it is not very springlike but I am really attracted to the dark coloured liberty lawns, perfect for a shirtdress and I do love this pattern.

It's Vogue 9077  a lovely shirtdress with lots of details.  I wouldn't say it was easy though as described on the packet.  Strangely the pattern has the darts on the rightside, which I don't like so I made them the traditional way on the inside.  It's a very fabric hungry pattern with a full skirt, great for switching.  In case you think this is extravagant, I got this liberty for £4.90 a metre from the end sale at Standfast and Barrat (they used to print it).  I love it and wish I'd bought some more.

I like the fit.  I cut a size 14 graded to a 12 at the waist, raised the waist by 1" and reduced the shoulder width by 5/8".  The main issue is the sleeves which are too wide (I think  you can see this) and also the cuffs which were way too wide for me.

The collar is unusual, its difficult to see here but  you have  has two pieces at the front.  The flaps are a nice detail, though you need to make sure they lie flat.  The flaps and the pieced collar mean you have multiple layers around here and this could be a problem with a thicker fabric (and they do suggest sateen).

I will make this again, perhaps with the fitted skirt.  It would look great in a plain colour to make the features stand out, and also to colour block.

This weeks Memade outfits ... 8 days

 You can just see Tess wanting to get in on the action .....