Monday, 30 May 2016

SewOverIt Pussy Bow Blouse and MeMade May

Last timeImade two tops (the Orla) I ended up not wearing either.  That won't be the case for the two SewOverIt pussy bow blouses.

This is actually the second one I made completely copied from Lisa's (SewOverIt) blouse.  The fabric is pure silk and appears to be sold out.  Although the fabric feels lovely it was not for the faint-hearted.  After handwashing getting the grain back was difficult and it moved during cutting, during sewing and pressing!  Still it is the drape that makes this blouse work for me.  I usually like a more fitted top but with this much drape it does work for me.

I made the lower V neck and really like this neckline.  This was the only tricky bit of the pattern getting the tie collar neat both inside and out, but with a bit of fiddling I managed!  Although the instructions are generally clear I could have done with clearer illustrations for the neck.  I cut a size 14, raised the waist by 1", reduced the sleeve length by 1", but made the cuff 5/8" wider.

This was actually the first one I made as a wearable muslin (fabric actually feels quite nice though it is very much a cheap ebay find at £3.50 per metre).

I used a little silk organza to help give the cuffs a little more stability.

I would also advice that you make the rouleaux loops much thinner than advised to make the cuffs neater.

Not much else to say.  I like the pattern and will be keeping it for possible future versions.

If you are pretty bored with Me-Made May look away now as I'm choosing to blog the whole lot at once.  As I wear me-made pretty much all the time it isn't really much of a challenge, but what I decided to do was to try to wear a different outfit everyday (though not when I was at home at the weekend when the same pair of sweatpants are pretty much what I wear).  So here we go!  I did manage to wear different outfits every day for the 20 days of work and a selection of weekend wear. I wear dresses a lot, but the most useful garment I have is my black wook-crepe skirt (not blogged).  My most complemented dress (though not my favourite) was the Lisette and my favourite pattern is probably Deer and Doe's Bruyere blouse.  Sory about the plethora of photos I tried to create a montage but failed miserably!

Vogue 1405

SewOverIt Pussy bow blouse and

Black wool crepe skirt








Sunday, 15 May 2016

This is my third Colette Wren and probably my favourite.

I have made two versions of the fitted skirt in ponte with long sleeves.  This time I made version 2.

.... and I like it.  The fabric is fabulous.  It is modal and silk jersey from Fabric Godmother, good value at £15 a metre, unfortunately they only have burnt orange left.  It feels gorgeous, though it was not really easy to work with and my overlocker really didn't perform well.  Still it feels so comfortable and lovely to wear and the colour is just lovely.

I cut my usual size Medium, taking 5/8" out of the shoulder width and the fit is pretty good.

For my last two versions I raised the waist by 1" and then decided the waist was a little high, so I returned the waist to its original place (it looks a little low at the back now).  So if you are taller than 5'4" you might find the waist needs lowering.

Everything went well except for the waist.  It is another gathered on clear elastic waist (like the Monetta) and I really do struggle with this.  You need at least 3 hands, and as you can see the waist has ended up rather lumpy, fine with a belt though.

I love the gathers at the shoulders and this was easy to do in the light jersey.  They make a nice fit on the bust.

Like my pervious Wrens I made a binding for the neckline rather than the suggested method of just folding the neck edge under.  The binding makes the fit snugger and feels much more robust.  I cut a long piece about 1" wide (as this fabric is really stretchy I didn't bother with this being on the bias but cut it on the grain) and made it about 1" shorter than the neckline length.  I finished it with a twin needle and I think it looks good.

So I'm happy with this one.  A few weeks ago I asked if anyone had any advice on the Inari Tee sleeves.  Well Karen has just blogged the complete answer and in reading this blog and watching the videos I have had a light-bulb moment.  I stupidly thought a lower armscye gave you more room and thus more comfort .... how wrong can you get.  It's well worth reading the post but also all the comments and watching the videos.  I now feel I can have another go at the Inari and sort the sleeve problem.

We've had some lovely days recently and Cumbria looks beautiful.  I had a lovely walk with Dan over the weekend, gorgeous blossom

 ... fat lambs ....

... the smell and the look of wild garlic ...

... and best of all the bluebells ...

Hope it is beautiful where you are and that the sewing is going well.  For us Brits the Great British Sewing Bee is back tomorrow night, so no doubt there will be some inspiration to be had.

Monday, 9 May 2016

Vogue 9006, Claude trousers and a visit to Rome

I'll start with Vogue 9006; a cowl top made in the most fantastic sandwashed silk (bought from Leons in Manchester and not available on their website).

I cut my usual size 14, and raised the waist by 1".  This top is cut on the bias, but I only did this for the front, where you need the drape for the cowl and cut the back as usual on the grain.

 I really like this pattern, it's a great pattern for those just beginning with silk because there are no zips or buttonholes

Buy Vogue Women's Tops Sewing Pattern, 9006 Online at

and with a bit of effort you can make it look great on the inside.   I used French seams throughout, including setting in the sleeves and it went really well .... look how pretty.

The trousers are Republique du Chiffon's Pantalon Claude.

This is a great pattern, and has helped no end with my trouser fitting problems.  They are pegged trousers and pretty comfortable, the only thing is the pattern is French, so it was an interesting challenge!  The pattern has welt pockets, which look great but I thought might add too much bulk at the stomach (and who wants that).  I made a practice pocket and it worked out well, but the final trousers are pocketless.

I cut a size 40 taking some of the fullness from the hip area, though I think I could still take a little more off.  As I have a high waist I added 1" to the crotch length, they are comfortable though I wonder if the 1" was just a touch too much.  This is my second pair and I there will be others tweaking the fit. 
 Just to prove I do wear what I make, here I am in Rome two weekends ago, having the most fabulous time.  What a wonderful city; culture, history, pasta, icecream, sunshine,


.. and even drinking icecold vodka cocktails in the icebar (-5 degrees!)
There was, of course, some fabric shopping at the wonderful Fratelli Bassetti Tessuti (wonderfully described here).  It has so much stock it is a little overwhelming!  (infact I think I look positively frightened!)
Determined to purchase something special I bought 3 fabrics
Gorgeous, particularly the bottom one which is 100% silk for a suit in a sort of dusty pink and which looks really Italian, and the leaf silk below on top.  I'm afraid there has been a bit of a splurge recently.
Sorry, for this really long post!  I have been photographing for Me-made May but I'm sure you will already have had enough!  So until the next time.