Wednesday, 18 February 2015

McCall's 6696 Shirtwater number 2

This is my second attempt at McCall's 6696 and generally I'm happier still with the result (first one blogged here).  My last version was a bit baggy on the waist and this time I graded from a slightly generous 14 1/2 to a 12 at the waist.  This made it look very angled on the pattern, but it seems to have worked.

I took out my usual 1"from the bodice length as I have a high waist.  What I love about this pattern is that it has a C cup size, without having to do a full-bust adjustment.  It is really fitted, but feels comfortable.  I made the belt loops this time, and I do like it with a belt.

What I forgot to do is to take 2" from the back gathering as I did the first time, so it is a little "puffy" but not too bad.

The fabric is the same as my bruyere shirt, but in the burgundy colourway.   There is an olive colourway too, perhaps I'll get some of that too.  I love this fabric.   Its great to sew, soft but with some structure.

I think the other thing I love about this dress is how neat you can make it inside.

I used French seams throughout, and this was my first time using French seams for the sleeves.   I wasn't sure how this would work, but it went well and wasn't much more difficult. I missed out the pockets, which I don't really use so that the side seams were neat.

I'm pleased with this dress (though a short-sleeved cotton dress isn't that seasonal).  I'll be making at least one more version, this time in liberty carline tana lawn (the purple colourway) which I got for the bargain price of £6 per meter from Standfast and Barracks in Lancaster.  It will be thinner, so one for more spring like weather.
I'm enjoying a few days off over half term and taking a pattern cutting class on trousers (more later), so lots of sewing fun and challenge!  Hope you are having some sewing fun!

Monday, 9 February 2015

The Cravat-necked sweater; a bit of vintage warmth

Time for a bit of knitting.  This is the Cravat-necked sweater from Runway Knits.  It is a very simple sweater, just stocking stitch and rib, and I would say is a pretty easy knit for the knitting beginner.    I bought my book second hand for a few pounds on Amazon.  The have a copy for 79p at the moment.

The cravat is knitted separately as a sort of ribbed rectangle and then just sewed on.  The only difficulty I had was setting the sleeve cap which was a bit square shaped and has left the shoulder a bit puffed up.

I knit the size 35", which should work out at 3" of negative ease (though I knit rather loosely and so I usually do size down).  I took one inch out of the bodice length as I have a high waist.

I love the  shape giving you such a fitted waist and I'm pretty happy with the fit.  I am wearing it here with my Butterick 5391 skirt and I wore this outfit to work today with a black jacket.

I love this wool.  I knitted my sweater in Sublime Extra Fine Merino DK and it is lovely.  So snuggly, soft and warm.  I had this sweater on during the dog walk today and I had to take my coat off because I was so warm!  The cravat, being a high neck makes it even warmer.  This wool is a delight to knit with and has excellent stitch definition if you like that pronounced look.  I realise I look a bit like a sweater girl here!  I guess this style definitely accentuates your assets!

Sorry about the poor quality photos, and the rather odd lines (which aren't there in real life), but I think Tess is trying to say she is bored waiting for her walk!

I knit quite a lot when I'm infront of the telli (I hate not having something to do with my hands).    Other knitting projects are on my Ravelry page.  I might well knit this one again in the future, perhaps in a mustard colour.  Are you knitting anything at the moment? Thanks for your comments, it is lovely to hear from others.

Sunday, 1 February 2015

Sewaholic Robson Coat

My second coat this winter.  This time the Sewholic Robson Coat.  I have to admit that yet again I got sucked in by a sew-along, rather than this being a garment I either love or need, and I have to say that I feel pretty ambivalent about the finished item. 

The sewalong was held by Rhonda, but it turned out to be more a number of tutorials rather than a sewalong which took you logically through all the construction.  This meant there were still bits which puzzled me about the construction.  I think this ended up to be the most challenging garment I've made, and I'm not really sure it was worth it!  The sewalong ended in December.  I spent most of my Christmas 2 week holiday sewing it and the fact that I've only just finished indicates how much work there is in this coat.  I did take a break because I actually got fed-up of it.  This all sounds a bit negative I know.

I cut a size 12, grading to a 10 at the waist.  I followed Rhona's suggestion to make the sleeve cap bigger, because my upper arms often need the space, however, I think this was a mistake.  You can see there is too much fabric in the upper arm, and as for the sleeve length ......

I reduced the sleeve length by 1.5" and they are still far too long.

 I'll have to keep my hands in my pockets.

One of the reasons it takes so long is that every seam is bound by bias binding (pretty insides though).  Because the sleeves are wool, I lined them.

This meant there were lots and lots of layers to fit in the bias binding!  You can get the idea below.
You can probably tell from the photos that the yoke pieces would have been much better if I had interfaced them as they stick out a little floppily.

There are bit I am very pleased about.  There was lots of top-stitching and generally I was very pleased with the result.

The collar fitted well and the epaulettes are cute.  The wool looks lovely with the gabardine. 

The coat was only time rich. it cost very little.  The light sage gabardine was only £5.99 per metre and I used 3 metres.  The wool was cheap from Abakan and was in my stash.  The bias binding was probably the most expensive part, you need 12 metres!  It's wearable, but I'm not excited!

So have I learnt not to get pulled in by the lastest sewalong!  Not at all, I'm afraid I've already bought my fabric for Grainline's Cascade duffle coat.  Yes, another coat, I must be a glutton for punishment, but I've always wanted a duffle coat, and it's a lovely pattern (not that the pattern is available in the UK yet!).    So is it just me or do you get distracted too!!