March BurdaStyle challenge

The second completed challenge in March, this time for Hila's BurdaStyle challenge (#burdachallenge2018).   So this is my choice from the March 2018 magazine, a peplum blouse.  I do like a peplum, so this was a fairly easy choice for me.  Had trouble with the photos today due to the sun! (can't believe it!).  

I cut a size 40, raised the waist by 1"  and otherwise the fit (including the neck which is a really nice one) is pretty good.    I made a quick Colette Mabel skirt from ponte scraps to wear with it.  (Has anyone else noticed how similar the new Tilly and the Buttons Bibi skirt it?).  I have a bit confession to make, a started to trace the pattern, got fed-up and actually downloaded it.  It costs about another £5 and there is the sticking to do and the seams to add, but when you are tracing a quite complicated pattern with lots of pieces to find it just takes me hours!

I didn't make this as per the magazine at all.  There is supposed to be a full lining and a back separating zip.  Now if you live along a back separating zip doesn't seem like a good idea!  So I  skipped the lining, and used a satin bias binding for the back neck facing.  I decided to put buttons on the front edge instead of the zip, however, this has made the blouse feel a little bit prone to moving  straight around and I think I might be pulling it straight all the time, so I'm not sure about this one.

The fabric was in my stash bought from Barry's in Birmingham a year ago.  It's a very stretchy cotton and actually the stretch is another reason the blouse doesn't quite feel secure, pretty though.  You might just be able to make out the button edge below.  So overall, glad to have completed the challenge, but a bit bleh about this one.

SewMyStyle The Kalle dress

I wasn't sure about the Kalle dress.  You may know I have a bit of a love/hate relationship with baggy dresses, mostly they drown me, so when the Kalle came out I gave it a wide birth, but I thought as it was this month's Sew My Style (#SewMyStyle2018)  I would give it a try, and I'm glad I did.

 
This is fabric from my stash.  I'm can't remember what it is something like a peachskin or cupro and I think it is perfect for the Kalle, which I think needs something drapey but with , weight.  I love it for this dress including the colour.  The only downside is that it doesn't press and thus wasn't easy to manage particularly with the placket.  By the way I did get a little confused by the instructions relating to the placket and I used the sewalong for additional help.  One thing I did find was how crucial it is to get real accuracy with your strips of interfacing and your folds.

One of the things I am going to need if I wear it with tights is a shorter slip!  It's peeking in the photo above.  I cut the size 10, a 36.5" bust sizing (I'm 37.5" bust).  I then graded down at the waist/hips by 1/4" at each seam, so a total of 1" .  I think the ease is pretty generous.

I used the box pleat because I think it hangs better.  The only real change I made was to reduce the difference between the front and back hem lengths and also to reduce the side split, I didn't want to flash too much thigh.  I also didn't notice that the hem facing was for the cropped shirt and so having drafted and cut one, I thought I would use it any way.    I'm it w not sure yet whether I will wear loose  or chicken out and add a belt.    Either way I like it, glad to have had a go and I've already bought some cupro for the next one.

Simplicity 8511 and IAM Casiope

Sometimes you really don't enjoy the sew but like the dress and sometimes you enjoy the sew but don't like the dress .... here is one of each!

 
First Simplicity 8511, and just in case it isn't obvious this is the one I like, but it really was a nightmare to make. 




I cut my ususal size 14, though looking at the photos it could have been a little more fitted. 

I love, love  the sleeves, I removed 1/2" from the length (and they are still a bit too long) , but the main difficulty was that the cuffs were far too big by at least 3".  You can see below that I have had to overlap the cuffs which you aren't supposed to.

The main problem was due to bulk.  This crepe is quite heavy and doesn't press.  The neckband was particularly bad, although I love the look of it, you end up with 8 layers at the shoulder seams, and although the zip went in really well, it was awful at the top (and rooky mistake but I actually poked the corner though on one side and had to resort to a bit of glue!  The kick-pleat was bulky and difficult to hem (better to just have a slit), and the sleeves had lots of bulk in the seams.   The cuffs were cut in 2 parts and they could be made in one, so cutting down on bulk.  With all this it, did the pattern go in the bin?  No, cause actually I do like this dress and think it has a lot of potential with the right fabric (which unfortunately I haven't figured out yet), it needs to be lighter than this crepe, but still with some structure.  Ideas welcome!

So one to the one I enjoyed sewing, particularly as I love this babycord from Higgs and Higgs, but I will never wear.  This is the IAM Patterns Casiope, and there are some lovely versions.

I cut the size 42 (37" bust and I am 37.5"), however, even though I took 1" off each side seam and it is still enormous.  Room for two more in here!  Perhaps you need to be taller to pull it off!  Or maybe the fabric isn't drapey enough.  Likely a combination of all.    Anyway,  shame, but this one for the British Heart Foundation!  Anyone made this with more success!