Vogue 9243 and more sleeve love

Ok, so it does look a bit as if I'm getting too into trends .... but I do love a bit of sleeve action.

 Lots and lots of people are making  McCalls 7542   but that pattern is a little boxy in the body for  me, I much prefer this princess seam fitted body.  I haven't seen many versions of this, but that may be because some of the sleeves are a bit much over the top.  However, I think the plainest sleeve option is a winner.

I cut a size 14 (having only bought the first size which goes up to a size 14), but was a bit worried that this was for a 36" bust and I'm a 37 1/2".  The size ended up to be fine and so it may be a bit on the large size.

The pattern calls for a 22" zip,  but I couldn't see the need for this and that it might be too heavy on my fine fabric, so I just made a short fastening with tiny buttons with loop fastenings.  The fabric is from Stoff and Still and is woven viscose at £11.50 a metre.  It is incredibly soft, one of the softest fabrics ever.

I really like the sleeves, though wonder if they should either be a little longer or a little shorter.  I used my small hem foot for all the hems.  I look the effect of this, but I just haven't cracked how to get over seams and also sew in a round.

I lowered the neck a little, because I hate high necks.  The neck uses bias binding as a facing and this worked pretty well.

I also made a skirt in the left-over fabric from my cashmere jacket  This is my second Colette Selene and I love this pattern.  It's a great work skirt and a very flattering fit.  The fabric was  little thick, but it is wearable.  I'm wearing  with a blouse I made last year, which is another on trend blouse!

Sewing apart I really enjoyed a week off during half term.  I met Dan and Gemma in Birmingham and we had a lovely day.  Especially as I did a bit of fabric shopping at Barry's and bought 4 great fabrics (2 for Gemma), this was on top of a bit of an internet haul from Fabric Godmother.  I had been pretty good over the last 2 month but it was only a matter of time!

The Melilot shirt and Pattern Runway scalloped shorts

A pair of summer separates as the end of summer sewing draws regretfully nigh.  The shirt is Deer and Doe Melilot, a casual shirt with dropped shoulders. 

 

I like Deer and Doe patterns, I believe that they design for a C cup which means no fba!  This is a roomy top so I cut a size 40 (36 1/4" bust, 28 1/2" waist and 38 1/2" hip) and as you can see it there is plenty of room.  I think you need a really drapey fabric to get the best out of this pattern.  This is a fine silk crepe and if I could remember where I got it from I would get some more.  It feels great and was easier to sew than silk.

 

 I made view B with a collar, and the hidden placket.    I left off the pocket and also the sleeve cuffs because I thought the unstructured sleeve would look better without.

I struggled to follow the instructions for the hidden placket and ended up facing and folding the wrong bit which meant the inside isn't quite as smart as it should be.  The instructions would have been clearer with photos or more illustrations.  I also still can't work out how you are supposed to do the top button hole if you leave it until the placket is finished, another time I would do the button holes before adding the collar.  I ended up with the lower placket peaking out and you can just see this below.  I loved the deep curved hems, but try as I might I could not get this to lie nicely and I ended up having to take out at least 1 1/2" from the depth of curve and making a really tiny hem.

So here is the shirt with a pair of shorts.  If you are of a nervous disposition look away now to avoid my (still) white legs!

These are Pattern Runway scalloped hem shorts. 

Now I haven't bought shorts for over 15 years, as I can never get them to fit, so I'm reasonably pleased with these as they are definitely wearable.  They are a size Medium, but overall a little large (and definitely less pert than the pattern photos!), so another time I would probably reduce to a Small.

For a pair of shorts there was plenty of challenge.  For a start there are the scallops at the front and a faced hem curving down a little at the back;

There are welt pockets at the back.  Even with the Pattern Runway tutorial as well as the instructions I find their instructions pretty undecipherable and pretty much ended up winging it!

 

I cut the stripe on the vertical here which I really like, and I wish that I had done the waist facing with the stripes going in the same direction.  Although the welts worked quite well you might just be able to see that the back dart went longer than the pocket opening and I have ended up cutting through it.  Another time I would make sure the dart stops before the pocket starts.

 

 
The front pockets are nice, but it did make the zip harder to fit.  Can you see that a zip would go lower than the bottom of the pocket making it difficult and bulky.  I cut some off my zip and found that actually a 6" zip (with this size) would be long enough.

 
The insides are quite neat and I used bremsilk for the pocket linings.   The fabric is a fine denim (Chambray?), slate grey stripe from Unique Image in Ulverstone; a metre was plenty.   I like the pattern.  I would say it is at least an intermediate and if you were a beginner I would probably advise leaving all the pockets out.

Just to prove I do wear my clothes.  Here is the shirt worn on Dan's 25th birthday at Go Ape in Grizedale forest.  High up in the trees selfies (love my boy)

 
Gemma wasn't always this relaxed.

 
Yes, the shirt is coping with the harness (not so much my legs on this tortuous crossing which involved almost an ariel split.

For Dan its all easy!

... but we did it and had a great time.

Liberty Bruyere

A favourite pattern ..... check! ..... lovely liberty fabric ......check! ..... a week's holiday ...... check! and a new sewing friend ......

(Yes I treated myself to a Pfaff Ambition machine).  What's not to love? I had a lovely week making a shirt I really like.  This is my second Bruyere and I love the fit on me.  I hardly had to make any changes, just a little from the shoulder width (which makes about 1" in total).  The rest seems made for me. I cut a 42 at the bust grading to a 40 at the waist (I'm about 38" bust C cup and 28" waist and 37" hip).  I'm also high waisted (about 1" above average) and didn't make any adjustments, so the waist would be higher on most people. 

The two pleats on the front and the back give fullness but keep things flat in all the right places.

The fabric is Liberty Suzanna Tana Lawn.  I don't seem to be able to find this colourway anywhere now and I do love it.  I bought it from my favourite fabric shop Unique Image in Ulverston.  If you are a UK buyer, buying full-price Liberty and you want to support a small independent shop you can order your Liberty from Unique Image.  I used some matching Liberty plain grey.

The thing I am most proud of is the pattern matching at the yoke, yes this is two separate pieces of fabric (I made it bigger just so you can see!).  Sorry if I sound as if I'm bragging, but I'm just so proud of this.

I frenchseamed the insides (except for the sleeves) and so the insides are really pretty.

I've had Dan and his puppy Monty staying for almost a week  .... lovely.  I do miss him.

We watched films, walked all the dogs and there may have been cream teas in the sun.

Most of the time Monty was pretty bonkers (he's only 5th months), but there were some moments of peace (time for a haircut for Rosie I think).

 

The winner of the pattern giveaway is Shannon from Adventures of a Young Seamstress.  I been enjoying Shannon's blog since she started and she has made some fabulous clothes.  I'll look forward to seeing her versions of some of the patterns!  Are you having a sewing holiday?  Back to my Ginger jeans and to cutting out another Linton Chanel jacket.