Vogue 8333

This was an epic make and most of the time I loved it.  I have made a couple of jackets from Gertie's book, but wanted to try a fully tailored one; enter Vogue 8333; Claire Shaeffer's Custom Couture Collection. 

.... and tailored it is!  This pattern includes instructions for a fully tailored jacket (as well as a simpler version), and it is pretty fantastic if you can cope with 106 steps.  I made version a) the fully tailored one and I have been plugging away at it for months.  I attend a sewing class every second Saturday and I use that time to make something more complicated, then sew lots of other things on my own at home, which is why it probably took 3 months to complete.  I did enjoy it though, lots of challenges and new techniques.


I thread traced all the seams, darts etc with silk thread (silk thread is fantastic, so much nicer to both sew with and then remove).

I used sew in horsehair for the facings, this was then pad-stitched at the collar.  Pad-stitching is  revelation, it makes such a difference. magically curving the collar.  I interfaced the rest of the jacket with silk organza.  You can get an idea with the gubbins below of how much work there is on the inside.

I cut a size 14 with a little extra added to outside of the princess seam only.  I made my usual changes; raising the waist by 1" and taking 5/8" from the shoulder width and the fit is pretty good. For some weird reason I made the sleeves a little wider and as you can see the result is that  the sleeve is a little wide and the sleeve cap just a little puckered, but that's the only thing that bothers me, so not bad!

 

The shape is great a really nice fit with a nipped-in waist and I like the seam lines at the back as well.

 

You can see there is a very interesting "double" pocket which is a really interesting feature,  although you do end up with a lot of fabric at seam, which only works with quite a light wool, a melton would be no good at all.

 

When you put this many hours in you splurge on the lining, and I could only find the colour I wanted in real silk (and then expensive Beckford silk at that), but I love it.  It feels fabulous, infact you want to wear skimpy tops so that you can feel that silk.

 

 I made one change and used bound buttons holes instead of hand sewn ones.  Not a great photo, but you can just about see the bound buttonhole on the right, and the back of the button ready on the left.

 

 
More insides showing the cigarette roll on the shoulder under the shoulder pads.

 
Starting to fit the lining.  The lining is put together by machine, but then sewn in entirely by hand, which took me most of a week!

I wish had kept a timing so I could estimate the hours.  I love the jacket with the exception of the sleeves, and it must have been worth it because I am contemplating making another with this gorgeous dusty pink silk I bought in Rome.  Hopefully I would be  quicker on a second attempt.

It's either Vogue 8333 or this Burda 6901 pattern, which I love the shape of, but not sure about the high neck.  I wonder if I could adjust it.  What do you think?

The Five month Dior-style jacket and the 5 hour Jaile scarf-collar top plus giveaway

I started this jacket way back in Feburary and have been plugging away steadily at my sewing class since then, hence why I am posting something which is very unseasonable at the moment.  This is my second version of Gertie's New Look jacket from her Book for Better Sewing. 

 

I love the fit and the shape of this jacket.  It really extenuates the waist.  Here it is worn with a fuller skirt (again from Gertie's book).

I am probably more likely to wear it for work with a slimmer skirt (yes, a very sensible look because I have a rather sensible job!).  Here it is with my adapted Mabel skirt

 

You can probably see the detail better here.  There is a big shawl collar, which is only at the front, there is no collar at the back at all which is rather unusual.  You can see the waist shaping here.  This is achieved by darting and an under-peplum.

 

The fabric is melton wool from the Cloth House.  I wouldn't use it again because it is just too firm and so difficult to work with plus at the moment it feels stiff to wear, on the other hand it has taken the shaping really well. I will definitely make this jacket again (and possibly in black) but perhaps use a good quality wool crepe.

The back view.  You can see there is actually quite a bit of fabric in the back, it isn't a close fit, but this does make it more comfortable to wear.

 
Here is a photo of the guts.  I used fusible heavy interfacing.

 
You can see the inner-peplum here.  Lots of darts to give extra structure.

I made bound button holes, they are rather too thick, so I will work on that in future.

I lined the jacket with satin.

I'm wearing the jacket with my new blouse.  This is Jalie 2921 scarf-collar top.  I love this pattern.  I made it previously in a thicker jersey, but this is gorgeous silk jersey and I absolutely love it.  It feels great to wear and was reasonably easy to cut and sew with care.  Now this is where I am jealous of you guys in the USA.  I couldn't find silk jersey anywhere in the UK under £100, and so I'm afraid I bought it from Mood.  It wasn't cheap but worth the cost and you could probably squeeze this top out of a generous metre.  What was even dearer are the shipping costs and then you have to add the £19 inport duty!  It's a good job I like it.  I also bought 1 1/2 metres of black.  I would love more of the colours but it's just too extravagant to repeat!  So lucky you in the USA.    The fabric has just the right stretch and feels really luxurious.

As I said I love this pattern.  It took me just under 5 hours to make and that included all the seams being French seamed (including the sleeve insertion).  I think the collar is very clever (the first time it took me a while to work out).  You roll up the back and front pieces into the collar.

You then sew the collar together, with the rest of the blouse inside, and pull it all out through a 1" gap!  I know amazing and it gives the inside such a clean look.

 

Inside of collar.

 

 

 
I'm going to make another one from the black silk jersey.  If I want to try an actual bow I will need to make the tie longer as it is a bit bunched at the moment.

On a non-sewing front Dan, Gemma and I went to see Elton John who was appearing in Kendal!  Direct from Las Vegas to Kendal.  It was a great show, though being outside pretty cold.

One of the more unusual opportunities I have at work is to see lots of lovely wild animals and this little family of ducklings won the award for cuteness this week.

Finally, I'm incredibly pleased to have more than 100 followers on Bloglovin, thanks so much and to celebrate I'm having 3 give-aways over the next 3 posts.  The first is a copy of the new Great British Sewing Bee book, because of postage I'm afraid I'm only offering this one to UK followers (but the next 2 pattern packages will be for everyone).  So if you would like to win this just leave a comment below (it's a long story how I ended up with more than one copy myself).  I'll close this draw on Monday 6th July.