Monday, 6 April 2015

Liberty Sureau

This is a Deer and Doe pattern, the Sureau.  I really liked the Deer and Doe Bruyere because it as a great fit for me and just my style, fitted at the waist, but comfortable.  It has taken me ages to understand that patterns are usually made for a B cup and so not made for my figure.  Deer and Doe patterns do seem to be drafted for a C cup, and also they seem to be high waisted, so that I don't have to make my usual adjustment of raising the waistline by an inch.

This is described as a beginners pattern and it was pretty straightforward.  The hardest part is probably getting the gathers right on the bodice.  The main change I had to make was to take another 5/8" off the shoulders, I really don't know what was going on as the bodice was far too baggy before I made this change.

The fabric is Liberty lantana and it's absolutely gorgeous to wear.  It feels a bit like Vyella (if you can remember that).  Very expensive full price, but you can pick up bargains on Ebay.  It's 80% cotton and 20% wool, so much warmer and heavier than Tana Lawn and I think its perfect for this dress.    No lining needed and lovely on the skin.

Hopefully it isn't to fussy, and I think the plain cream buttons help to tone it down a little, though it is a bit Laura Ashley!

Rather than being a great fit straight from the packet I made a lot of little changes:
  • cut the longest length and added a further 1 1/2"
  • bodice cut a size 42" and graded down to a 40 at the waist.
  • Cut the shoulders at 34" and took a further 5/8" from the shoulder width
  • For the arm scythe cut a 32" at the shoulder to a 38" (on a future version I would cut the back at 36" as it is a little baggy in the back
  • Sleeve cut a size 38" and graded down to a 34" at the hem.

I would also move the front dart to the 42" position rather than the 40" I had on this version.

This all sounds rather more complicated than it actually was, its great to be able to make these changes to get a better fit.  I feel I'm really beginning to understand much better how patterns fit.    Sorry about the odd photos, just not used to sunshine!  .... and as for the pasty legs.

I've had a great Easter holiday sewing, so more to come.  Have you been sewing at all?


  1. This is a really lovely dress. I love the colour and how the pattern has that slightly relaxed look to it. I smiled at the Laura Ashley reference, but in a good way. One of my favourite dresses is a Laura Ashley Liberty.

  2. I love this pattern and it looks great on you - well done!

  3. When you say B and C cup I assume you're talking bra sizes? What should one do if, like me, you're an F cup? (I'm tall, I can carry it off thank goodness) I love the fabric, it's not fussy at all - I think the colourway stops it being too fussy. I really like it, it suits you. I'm not sewing anything right now, just enjoying lots of crochet. (And I've made a mental note to sew any dresses in stretch jersey across the bust.) xx