This is a Deer and Doe pattern, the Sureau. I really liked the Deer and Doe Bruyere because it as a great fit for me and just my style, fitted at the waist, but comfortable. It has taken me ages to understand that patterns are usually made for a B cup and so not made for my figure. Deer and Doe patterns do seem to be drafted for a C cup, and also they seem to be high waisted, so that I don't have to make my usual adjustment of raising the waistline by an inch.
This is described as a beginners pattern and it was pretty straightforward. The hardest part is probably getting the gathers right on the bodice. The main change I had to make was to take another 5/8" off the shoulders, I really don't know what was going on as the bodice was far too baggy before I made this change.
The fabric is Liberty lantana and it's absolutely gorgeous to wear. It feels a bit like Vyella (if you can remember that). Very expensive full price, but you can pick up bargains on Ebay. It's 80% cotton and 20% wool, so much warmer and heavier than Tana Lawn and I think its perfect for this dress. No lining needed and lovely on the skin.
Hopefully it isn't to fussy, and I think the plain cream buttons help to tone it down a little, though it is a bit Laura Ashley!
Rather than being a great fit straight from the packet I made a lot of little changes:
- cut the longest length and added a further 1 1/2"
- bodice cut a size 42" and graded down to a 40 at the waist.
- Cut the shoulders at 34" and took a further 5/8" from the shoulder width
- For the arm scythe cut a 32" at the shoulder to a 38" (on a future version I would cut the back at 36" as it is a little baggy in the back
- Sleeve cut a size 38" and graded down to a 34" at the hem.
I would also move the front dart to the 42" position rather than the 40" I had on this version.
This all sounds rather more complicated than it actually was, its great to be able to make these changes to get a better fit. I feel I'm really beginning to understand much better how patterns fit. Sorry about the odd photos, just not used to sunshine! .... and as for the pasty legs.
I've had a great Easter holiday sewing, so more to come. Have you been sewing at all?